Loud, fragrant and gloriously colourful, Little India is the most sensory of Singapore's quarters — garland-makers, spice-scented streets, the candy-bright House of Tan Teng Niah and the 24-hour Mustafa Centre. It's also a feast: biryani, dosa and fish-head curry around Serangoon Road, with hip Jalan Besar cafés and old-school laksa just beyond.
