Lau Pa Sat Satay Street

After 7pm each night, the lane beside the historic Lau Pa Sat market closes to traffic and fills with smoky charcoal grills — this is the famous Satay Street. Skewers of marinated chicken, beef, mutton and prawn are fanned over glowing coals and served with thick peanut sauce, ketupat rice cakes, cucumber and raw onion. Vendors sell by the dozen, so gather a crowd, grab a roadside table and order in rounds with a cold beer. The Victorian cast-iron market overhead, shipped from Glasgow in the 1890s, makes the setting genuinely atmospheric. It's halal, lively and best after dark — arrive hungry and ready for a little friendly haggling over quantities.