Zam Zam

Opposite the Sultan Mosque, Zam Zam has been frying murtabak since 1908, and the touts at the door are part of the experience. The murtabak — flaky dough stuffed with spiced minced mutton, chicken or beef, egg and onion — is griddled to order and served with curry. It's hearty, halal and best shared, alongside a plate of biryani. Watch the dough being flipped at the open griddle, then dig in while it's piping hot.