Geylang Lorong 29 Fried Hokkien Mee

This institution fries its Hokkien mee the laborious old way — over charcoal — for an extra layer of smoky depth. The noodles come wet and luxuriously rich, braised in a prawn-and-pork stock until they soak up all the umami, finished with a squeeze of lime and fierce sambal. It's a heavier, more indulgent plate than the drier east-coast versions, and portions are generous. Born on Geylang's Lorong 29 — hence the name — it now fries from East Coast Road and still runs late into the night. Order a large to share and don't skip the chilli.