Candlenut

Candlenut is the world's first Michelin-starred Peranakan restaurant, where chef Malcolm Lee refines his family's Nyonya recipes without stripping out their soul. The signature ayam buah keluak — chicken braised with earthy, truffle-like Indonesian black nuts — is a must, the nuts painstakingly cleaned and pounded over days. For the full experience, order the 'Ahmakase' tasting menu (a play on 'omakase' and ah-ma, grandmother), which walks you through curries, sambals and heritage dishes rarely done this well. The setting at Dempsey Hill is elegant yet relaxed, a world away from a hawker stall. Reservations are essential, and it's one of the pricier meals in this guide.